This is a Throwback
Thursday post. In a week, I’ll be
traveling to Wyoming for the Bighorn Mountain 100. Here’s the race report I wrote a year ago
after a DNF at the same race.
On June 20-21, 2014, I attempted the Bighorn Mountain 100
Mile Run in northern Wyoming. I didn't
finish. This was my second DNF in a 100
mile trail run. Two years ago, I had a
DNF at the Western States 100. Although
I mostly run marathons, I plan to run a different 100 mile race each year until
I eventually get into Western States again.
This year, I picked the Bighorn Mountain 100 for my qualifying
race. I chose this race because everyone
I've talked to who has done it has described it as the most scenic 100 miler
they've done.
The course is out-and-back, starting by the Tongue River
near Dayton, WY and finishing at Scott Park in Dayton. The turnaround point is in the Bighorn
Mountains. The course follows Bighorn
Canyon. It's mostly single-track trail,
but there are sections of dirt roads and ATV trail. Aside from the obvious difficulty of running
100 miles, I had to contend with long tiring hills, rocky terrain, elevations
ranging from 4000 to 9000 feet, hot temperatures in the afternoon and cold
temperatures during the night. The
out-and-back course made it feasible for me to run without a crew. I used drops bags to hold the extra gear I
would need during the night.
I knew I could run 100 miles. I also knew I could handle getting enough
food, liquid and electrolytes. I've
handled racing in hot weather. I
expected the biggest challenges to be the high elevation and the long
climbs. Then I read this recommendation
in the runner's handbook:
“Each runner and any pacer should strongly consider taking a
minimum checklist of equipment and safety clothing with them from the Little
Bighorn River Footbridge Aid Station at 30 miles on their way out on this
course to ensure in their safety in ascending the Little Bighorn Canyon in the
evening or at night. In past years, the
Bighorn Trail 100 was held in near perfect to somewhat warm conditions; and yet
many participants experienced significant hypothermia in their ascent of the
Little Bighorn Canyon due to night chill and the predictable canyon
headwinds. This canyon is isolated with
very limited access points making any needed rescues extremely difficult and
complicated. Sudden thunderstorms or
snowstorms can unpredictably occur at any time in the Bighorns especially in
the late evening hours. The list
includes a minimum of 1) three working flashlights (additional spare batteries
suggested), 2) a long sleeve moisture wicking material shirt, 3) long tights or
long weather pants, 4) a nylon jacket or similar type of upper shell, 5) a
plastic emergency poncho 6) gloves, and 7) headwear (a stocking cap, balaclava,
or some type of hood).”
I was already planning to have a drop bag at this aid
station to pick up my headlamp, flashlight, spare batteries and some warm
clothes for the night. I didn't realize
how much extra clothing I would need until I read this. First I had to figure out if I had adequate
clothing that was lightweight and compact enough to carry with me in a fanny
pack. Then I had to find a large enough
fanny pack. Deb had one I could use, but
I realized that Deb's fanny pack wouldn't fit over the fuel belt I usually use
because that belt had zippered pouches in the front and holds water bottles in
the back. I ended up buying a new fuel belt
that only holds a 22 oz. water bottle. I
had to try it on to make sure I could wear both the fuel belt and the fanny
pack. That worked, as long as I wore the
fanny pack in front. Next I had to
decide if I could get by with a single 22 oz. bottle. Some of the aid stations are only a few miles
apart, but others are as far as seven miles apart. One such section was all uphill and would
probably take two or three hours. I came
to the conclusion that I would need two bottles for a few sections of the
course. I could carry the extra bottle
while I was using it and clip it to the fanny pack when it was empty.
I tried wearing both the fuel belt and fanny pack on a 10
mile training run, to see how they felt.
I started my run carrying a hand-held bottle. When that bottle was empty, I clipped it to
the fanny pack and started drinking from the second bottle. I felt slightly weighted down, but it seemed
like I could wear everything comfortably.
It's important to test new things in training runs, rather than on race
day.
Two days before the race, I checked the weather forecast for
Dayton. It wouldn't tell me much about
the weather conditions in the mountains, but I wanted to know what the sunset
and sunrise times would be. Sunset
Friday night would be 9:00. That meant
it wouldn't get completely dark until about 9:30. Sunrise was before 5:30, so I expected it to
start getting light again by 5:00 Saturday morning. This race finished on the longest day of the
year, so I would only have to run in darkness for about seven and a half hours.
For what it's worth, the forecast high in Dayton was 80
degrees. Since most of the course is at
higher elevations, it would only get that hot in a few places. The overnight low for Dayton was 53, but that
was completely meaningless. In the
mountains, it could easily drop below freezing.
There isn't much lodging in Dayton, so I stayed at the Hampton
Inn in Sheridan, which is about 20 miles away.
Most of the pre-race and post-race activities were also in
Sheridan. To get there, I flew to
Billings, MT on Thursday and drove the rest of the way. The drive time from Billings to Sheridan is
about two hours. I took a little extra
time to stop at the Little Bighorn Battlefield in Montana. It was along the way, and it gave me an
opportunity to learn more of the history of the area.
When I arrived in Sheridan, I checked in at Hampton
Inn. Before going to the expo, I packed
my drop back with the clothes and gear I would need during the night. Once my drop bag was packed and properly
labeled, I went to the expo on Main Street.
I needed to pick up my race packet and drop off my drop bag by
6:00. After stopping at the hotel to
finish getting organized, I went to the pasta social at Ole's Pizza. I met a few runners who have done this race
before. I learned that even the sections
of the course I thought were easy were challenging in ways I didn't expect. I also learned that the aid station at the
turnaround has a heated tent. If I
needed to get out of the elements to change clothes, I could do it there.
After dinner, I tried to get to bed as early as I could, but
I couldn't fall asleep until it got dark outside. Likewise, I was awake at dawn. I got about seven hours of sleep, but I had
hoped for more. The previous night I was
kept awake by a thunderstorm. After
getting dressed and applying sunblock, I ate breakfast at the hotel. I left for Dayton at 7:15. The race wouldn't start until 11:00 Friday
morning, but there was a pre-race briefing at 9:00 in Dayton, which is a 30
minute drive from Sheridan. Knowing that
parking there would be limited, I tried to get there as early as possible. I arrived at 7:45 and was rewarded with a
nice close parking spot.
The briefing lasted about 30 minutes. In addition to reviewing the rules, we were
told about a few places where we could find drinkable water between aid
stations that were far apart. After the
briefing, I left my car at the finish and got a ride to the start, which was
four miles away. Most runners were
dropped off at the start by their crews.
There were also two small shuttle buses for runners who didn't have a
ride.
At the start of the race, I was dressed for warm daytime
temperatures. Most of my warm clothes
were in my drop bag, along with my headlamp, flashlight and spare
batteries. I left another set of warm clothes
in my car. At the start of the race, I
only filled one water bottle, but I had a second bottle clipped to my fanny
pack for later. Because the course is
out and back, I was able to get by with only one drop bag. I had it sent to the Footbridge aid
station. In the first half of the race,
I would get to this aid station at 30 miles.
I expected to get there around 5:00.
Even if I got there later than expected, I would pick up my headlamp,
flashlight and warm clothes well before nightfall. On my way back, I would go through this aid
station at 66 miles. By then, it would
be after dawn on Saturday, so I would be done with my headlamp, flashlight and
most of the warm clothes.
There were several things I needed to do at every aid
station. The most important was to check
in when I arrived and check out when I left.
This is important not only so the race officials know you reached each
aid station, but also so they know where you are on the course at all
times. A lot of things can happen when
you're on a remote section of trail by yourself. You could make a wrong turn and get lost; you
could fall and injure yourself, you could suffer heat stress in the afternoon
heat; or you could succumb to hypothermia at the higher elevations during the
night. Checking in at the aid station
lets the race officials know you're still moving. Should you fail to check in for a long time,
knowing when and where you last checked out from an aid station lets the race
officials know where to look for you.
Besides checking in and out of each aid station, I needed to
know where I was on the course and how far I would have to go to reach the next
aid station. I always needed to refill
at least one bottle. Where the aid
stations were far apart, I would need to fill two bottles. Finally, I needed to eat enough food to
sustain myself. I wasn't carrying any
solid food with me, so the aid stations were the only places I could eat.
I had a five word mantra as a shorthand notation for my aid
station checklist: “In, Ask, Fill, Eat,
Out.” This referred to checking in,
asking where I was and how far it was to the next aid station, refilling my
bottle(s), eating food, and checking out.
Each time I went through the Footbridge aid station, I would also need
to ask for my drop bag.
In long ultras like this one, training is somewhat
important, but planning is more important.
After studying the elevation profile, reading the course description,
and talking to other runners, I broke the course into four sections. Each section called for different pacing
plans and goals. The first section was
the 30 miles from the start to the Footbridge aid station. While not easy, I thought this would be the
most runnable section of the course. The
elevation ranged from 4100 to 7800 feet.
There was a long steep hill near the beginning and a steep descent near
the end. I would be running it in
daylight, and I would be running it with dry shoes. After Footbridge, my shoes would likely be
wet and/or muddy for the rest of the race.
Without having seen the terrain, my hope was that I could find enough
runnable sections to average 12 minutes per mile. That would get me to footbridge in about six
hours.
The next section was the 18 miles from Footbridge to the
Jaws Trailhead aid station at the turnaround.
This would be mostly uphill, gradually ascending above 9000 feet. There are lots of small mountain streams and
part of the trail becomes mud bogs. I
would start this section in daylight, but finish in darkness. I would also experience a significant
temperature drop. By the time I reached
Jaws, it would most likely be below freezing, so I would need to add extra
layers of clothes along the way. I
expected to walk most of this section.
At three miles per hour, it would take six hours. Because of all the climbing, I expected to be
closer to nine hours.
The third section was the 18 miles from Jaws Trailhead back
to Footbridge. I would start in
darkness, but finish in daylight. It
would be mostly downhill, but without knowing what the footing was like, I
couldn't assume I would go much faster than I did on the ascent. I pessimistically budgeted eight hours for
this section.
The last section of the course was the remaining 34
miles. It included retracing my route
from Footbridge back to the start and then doing four relatively flat miles on
a dirt road to reach Scott Park in Dayton.
I knew I would go slower at this point in the race, but it was hard to
know how much slower. If I ran the first
three sections in six, nine and eight hours respectively, I would have 11 hours
to finish the last 34. That seemed
manageable, even if I walked more coming back.
That was the plan.
The reality was, of course, quite different. I discovered during the race that I
underestimated the difficulty of some sections and overestimated the difficulty
of others. I also discovered that the obstacle
that would ultimately end my race was something I never would have anticipated.
Although the race didn't start until 11:00, most of us were
at the starting line by 10:00. It was
sunny and it was already getting warm. I
kept off my feet by sitting on a large rock, but it was in the sun. I was getting hot, so I moved to find some
shade. Near the start, there was a
footbridge over the Tongue River. Lots
of runners waited there. It was a nice
shady spot with views of the river.
View above us at the start. |
We started on a dirt road.
I ran at a conservative pace, so I wouldn't be near the front of the
pack when we got onto the trail. We
reached the trail at about 1.25 miles.
There was a self-service aid station where we left the road. I topped off my bottle, knowing it would be
all uphill to the next one. We were
still packed together, and there isn't much room to pass on this part of the
trail. I didn't have to give much
thought to when I should run and when I should walk. I just followed the runners ahead of me. Whenever the runners ahead of me started
walking, I knew we were reaching a section that was steep or rocky. At 3.5 miles, we reached the Lower Sheep
Creek aid station. The volunteers there
reminded me that it would be five miles to the next one, so I filled two
bottles.
The next five miles were so steep that everyone was
walking. We just went up and up and up,
with no end in sight. At times, I could
look up and see a line of runners ahead of me that stretched for a mile. They were all walking. There were several false summits, but each
time I reached one, the trail continued going up. The trail was a cowpath across the hillsides,
surrounded by wildflowers.
Wildflowers along the trail |
Walking uphill for so long was making my calf muscles
sore. I had a shorter stride than the
runners in front of me, so it was hard to keep up. Not wanting to hold up the line of runners
behind me, I looked for opportunities to run, even if it was only for a few
feet at a time. During the steep climb,
sweat was dripping down my face. Because
of the 11:00 start, it was already hot, and I wondered if I was drinking
enough. At the top of the climb, we
reached the Upper Sheep Creek aid station.
I still had some HEED in one of my bottles, so I used it to wash down a
potato wedge. Then I refilled one of my
bottles. It was going to be almost five
miles to the next aid station, but there was very little elevation change, so I
didn't fill the second bottle.
The next five miles were much more runnable. Now that we were above 7000 feet, we got our
first views of Bighorn Canyon. At first,
we saw forested hillsides on the opposite side.
Whenever we had good views, I had to force myself to look around so I
wouldn't miss them. Most of the time, I
was looking just in front of my feet to make sure I didn't trip on
anything. Later in the afternoon, we
would see walls of colored rock. We were
now exposed to the wind. It was a headwind,
but it felt good. For the next few
hours, I didn't feel as hot. Although we
were still running on a cowpath, the vegetation at this elevation was
different. The trail was narrow, and the
sage brush scraped against my legs. At
times, it also obstructed my view of rocks in the trail. I occasionally caught my foot on a rock, but
I did a good job of keeping my balance.
At 13.4 miles, I reached the Dry Fork Ridge aid
station. This was a larger aid
station. It had chip mats to record each
runner's check in and check out times.
It was the first aid station that was accessible for crews. It was also one of the few aid stations with
bathrooms. Although it was going to be
six miles to the next aid station, I decided I could get by with only one
bottle if I also drank at the aid station.
I ate a PBJ and washed it down with a large glass of Pepsi. Before checking out, I made use of the
bathroom. Bears may poop in the woods,
but I try to avoid it.
As I left Dry Fork Ridge, I started down a long gradual
hill. We were now on an ATV trail. It was easy to see my footing and there
weren't any rocks. The only thing uncomfortable
about it was the varying depth of the ruts.
I took full advantage of the opportunity to run downhill. The ATV trail eventually led to a dirt road,
which was also a gentle downgrade. For
the first time, I wasn't always within sight of other runners. I told myself I would have to start watching
for trail markers. I should have
listened to myself. Within minutes, the
trail diverged from the road, and I missed the orange flagging that marked the
trail. Three runners in front of me also
missed it. Fortunately, two of them
noticed flagging in the nearby meadow.
When they yelled that we had to go back, I backtracked until I saw the
trail marking. I was only off course for
a minute or two, but after that I was more vigilant. About three miles from the aid station, I saw
a runner refilling his bottle from a crystal clear mountain stream. I assume this was one of the places where we
were told the water was drinkable. I had
enough HEED to last until the next aid station, so I didn't need to stop. There were numerous other stream
crossings. Most of the time, I was able
to step across on rocks to avoid getting my shoes wet. Later in the race, getting my shoes wet or
muddy would be unavoidable, but I wanted to keep them dry as long as possible.
At 19.5 miles, I reached the Cow Camp aid station. When I asked how far it was to the next one,
I was told seven miles. That surprised
me. I didn't think there were so many
long stretches between aid stations. I
was confused because the list of aid stations on the race website included the “unmanned”
aid stations. These were spots where you
could find an easily accessible source of drinkable water. In this case, there was a large pipe about
four miles after Cow Camp with a constant stream of fresh water. It's used as a course of drinking water for
cattle. It was obvious that parts of the
trail were recently used by horses or cattle.
They made footprints in the trail when it was soft from recent
rains. Then the mud hardened, leaving
uneven footing. It wasn't as bad as the
rocks in other parts of the trail, but it was still uncomfortable.
The last aid station before Footbridge was Bear Camp. I'm not sure, but I think this is the aid
station where I discovered that a potato wedge in a cup of soup broth tastes
great. Two runners who were leaving the
aid station asked where the fun begins, and a volunteer said “right here.” I think they were referring to “the wall.” On the return trip, “the wall” is the most
difficult climb of the race. We were
about to do it in the downhill direction.
In the next 3.5 miles, we would descend roughly 2200 feet. Immediately after the aid station, the trail
turned downhill, but then it turned up again.
When the real descent began, it was steeper. Just when I thought it couldn't get more
difficult, the trail became littered with rocks. I don't know how anyone could descend quickly
without hitting a rock. At one point, I
came out to what looked like a small cliff.
It was only about five feet down, but it was nearly straight down and it
was all rock. I had to stop and study it
for a few seconds to figure out how to get down without falling. Then I wondered how I would ever climb it on
the return trip. Earlier in the day, I
was occasionally passed by a faster runner.
Now everybody was passing me.
Others wanted to make good time on this section. I just wanted to get down in one piece, and I
didn't mind being the slowest runner on the trail. At one point, we briefly emerged into a
clearing. One of the fast runners ahead
of me walked off the trail and stopped in the grass to take pictures. When I got there, I discovered why. We are alongside the canyon and had
spectacular views in both directions.
I descended for what seemed like miles. Then I heard the sound of a raging
river. I soon came out to another
clearing where I could see the Little Bighorn River below me. It was WAY below me. Realizing that I needed to descend all the
way to the river, I was dismayed how far down it was. The trail here was wider and less rocky,
enabling me to descend quickly. It's
scary how quickly I got down to the river.
I stepped down over a few rocks to get onto the footbridge. I could see the Footbridge aid station on the
other side. I paused as I crossed the
bridge so I could take in the views of the canyon from river level.
It took me just over seven hours to finish the first 30
miles. I wasn't surprised by that. I realized on the first long climb that this
part of the course was more difficult than I originally thought. What concerned me more was realizing how
challenging “the wall” would be later in the race. I started doing the math. If I took nine hours to reach the turnaround
and another eight to get back, I would only have 10 hours to do the last 34 miles. The first 30 miles took me seven hours when I
was still fresh. Add an hour for slowing
trudging up “the wall” with fatigued legs
Add another hour for having to cross the next 26 miles in the afternoon
heat after climbing "the wall."
Then add one more hour for the extra four miles at the end. That adds up to 10 hours. Unless I could make good time getting to Jaws
and back, I would be cutting it close.
I was also noticing a blister on the tip of one of my
toes. It didn't hurt when I walked, but every step was painful when I
ran. Knowing I would feel that for the rest of the race contributed to my
pessimism. I tried not to think about it.
When I checked in at Footbridge, a volunteer immediately
retrieved my drop bag and led me to a chair.
This was the first aid station with a medical check. When I asked about it, I was told that at
this point at the race, they were just asking everyone how they felt and only
doing follow-up checks if someone didn't look good. I exchanged my running hat for a warm winter
cap and put on my headlamp. Next, I
transferred my warm clothes, flashlight and spare batteries into my fanny
pack. After stuffing all the clothes in,
I could barely zip it shut. I was ready
to return my drop bag, but the volunteers were all busy. While I waited, I had some soup broth and
candy bars. Then I returned my drop bag
and checked out. After leaving the aid
station, I noticed my overstuffed fanny pack was putting pressure on my
stomach. I took off the fanny pack so I
could loosen the waistband. While I had
the fanny pack off, it seemed like a good time to also remove my fuel belt so I
could pee. It was my first “bathroom”
break since Dry Fork Ridge, and I didn't have to go very much. I was probably getting a little dehydrated,
but the temperature would soon be dropping, so I could easily rehydrate just by
maintain my same fluid intake as it got colder.
I was beginning the next major section of the course. It was 18 miles from Footbridge to Jaws. This would be almost entirely uphill, with the
elevation ranging from 4600 to 9400 feet.
I pessimistically estimate that this might take as long as nine
hours. I now realized I would need to do
it in eight. The descent into Footbridge
had taken a toll on my legs. As I left
Footbridge, the trail followed the river, and it was rocky. Walking over rocks, I was moving slowly. I also quickly got hot wearing a winter
hat. I stuffed my hat into my fanny pack
and wore my headlamp directly against my forehead. It was uncomfortable, but I would have to
live with it until the temperature started to drop. Because I was walking slowly, I realized I
would need to run anywhere I could to keep my average pace from being too
slow. I really wanted to do the next 18
miles in seven or eight hours. At first,
everything was either steeply uphill or rocky, but then the trail came back to
the river, and I found several runnable sections. My legs were fatigued, so I couldn't run very
fast. By forcing myself to run where I
could, I maintained a decent average pace.
After 3.5 miles of alternating slow running with slow
walking, I reached the Cathedral Rock aid station. It took me slightly less than an hour to get
there. I was pleased with that. This was a remote aid station where all the
supplies had to be carried in by backpack.
The volunteers had a bonfire and were camped out for the night. I knew it was 6.5 uphill miles to the next
aid station, so I filled both of my bottles with HEED. As I surveyed the food options, I saw some
Pop Tarts. I needed something to wash it
down, so I asked if they had any Pepsi.
They didn't, but they had soup broth.
Soup broth and a Pop Tart is an odd flavor combination, but it gave me a
nice mixture of sugar, salt and water, with just a little bit of fat. While I was eating and drinking, I sat down
on a stump. Before I left, I put on my
hat again. While it wasn't cold yet, it
had cooled off just enough that I could wear it without getting hot. When I got up to leave, I realized I had been
sitting too long. My legs felt a little
bit stiff. I forced myself to run, so I
could work out the stiffness.
Although the next 6.5 miles were all uphill, it wasn't too
steep, and the trail didn't have too many rocks. I found plenty of sections that were
runnable. 6.5 miles is a long way to
run. With a mixture of slow running and
slow walking it seemed to take forever.
Until I got to the next aid station, I wouldn't have any idea how far I
had gone or what my pace was. I was
probably about halfway to the next aid station when I started to feel
cold. I waited until I was done using my
handheld bottle, so I had two free hands.
Then I put on my gloves. A short
time later I pulled on my Tyvek jacket.
That kept me comfortable all the way to the next aid station, but I had
difficulty reaching my other water bottle without the jacket getting in the
way. It probably would have been smarter
to clip the belt on over the jacket instead of under it. Before I got to the next aid station, it got
dark enough that I needed to turn on my headlamp. That gave me enough light to see the trail,
but the trail gradually became less well defined. Sometimes the trail split into two
paths. They usually recombined a short
time later, but I never knew for sure unless I saw a trail marker.
At 40 miles, I reached the Spring Marsh aid station. It took about two and a half hours to cover
the last 6.5 miles. While not as fast as
the previous section, it was still an acceptable pace. While I was there, I decided to put on my
long sleeve polypro shirt. It needed to
go underneath my jacket and singlet, so I sat down while I changed
clothes. Before I checked out, I asked
how much more climbing we had. I was
told 2000 feet. In fact, it was worse
than that. The net ascent to the Jaws
aid station was 2000 feet, but we would actually climb 2500 feet and then
descend 500 feet. Shortly after leaving
the aid station, I started seeing the lead runners coming back. They were spread out, but whenever I saw a
headlamp approaching, it was like an extra trail marker.
I was about a mile past Spring Marsh when I heard thunder in
the distance. Soon, I also saw
lightning. After one particularly bright
flash, I listened for the accompanying thunder.
There was a long enough delay that I guessed the lightning was two miles
away. That was comforting, since the
lightning seemed to be horizontal. I
waited until I felt rain drops before opening my fanny pack to get my rain
poncho. By the time I finished putting
it on, the rain had become a downpour. I
also put on my shell mittens, in hopes of keeping my hands warm. Ever since Footbridge, the stream crossings
had been more difficult. I sometimes
couldn't avoid getting my feet wet. More
recently, I had encountered mud bogs.
With the rain, suddenly they were larger. In some places, the trail itself had become a
stream. Worse yet, even on high ground,
the trail was becoming slippery. The
trail was still mostly uphill, and I sometimes took two steps forward and one
step back. I had to wonder how
treacherous it would be going downhill.
Before the thunderstorm, I was optimistic that I could make really good
time on the return trip to Footbridge.
Most of the trail had a gentle slope, so I could probably run most of
the downhill. The mud changed
everything. I now questioned if I could
run any of it without slipping. Even
though I was making good time, I was once again pessimistic about finishing
before the cutoff.
By the time I reached the Elk Camp aid station at 43.5
miles, the rain had stopped. The damage
to the trail was already done. There
were deep puddles and muddy patches everywhere.
The aid station had a bonfire surrounded by benches. My shell mittens were wet, so I set them on
some rocks near the fire to dry them out.
That worked well. I was able to
leave the aid station with dry mittens.
Shortly after leaving the aid station, I encountered a stream crossing
that seemed more like a raging river.
There was a log bridge across the river.
Unlike similar bridges I had crossed earlier, this one didn't have any rope
or railing to hold onto. The logs were
wet, and my shoes were muddy. I didn't
have any confidence that I could walk across without slipping. I also didn't think I could wade through the
river without getting swept away by the current. After a few moments of hesitation, I got down
on all fours and crawled across the bridge.
It wasn't elegant, but I got across safely.
This is another runner crossing the same bridge in daylight. |
A short time later, I encountered another stream. This one was only a few inches deep. I could have waded through it, but I didn't
relish the thought of filling my shoes with ice water when the air temperature
was probably in the low 30s. There was a
large rock in the river, and I tried to use the rock to step across. My muddy shoes didn't get any traction on the
wet rock, and I fell backward, landing in the stream. The stream was fed by snow melt, so it was
ice cold. Another runner reached the
stream just after I fell and held out a hand to pull me out of the water. My shorts and gloves were soaked with ice
water. I was lucky I was wearing a
plastic rain poncho, or all my clothes would have been soaked.
I still had about four miles to go to get to the Jaws aid
station. They have a large heated tent
that's like a hypothermia triage unit. I
was going to need it. My hands quickly
became numb. It was only a matter of
time before I would get hypothermic. It
was now cold enough that I could see my breath.
I realized my race was over. I
couldn't continue through the night like this.
Now I was in a different kind of race.
I was in a very remote area. If I
collapsed from hypothermia, it would take a long time for help to arrive. I had to make it to Jaws on my own
power. I was literally racing for my
life.
The trail was so sloppy that I couldn't run without slipping,
but I power walked as fast as I could.
Moving quickly served two purposes.
It would help me keep warm and it would get me to Jaws faster. Contributing to my worries, I could no longer
use my hands. With effort, I could
wiggle a finger, but I couldn't handle a water bottle. For the next four miles, I didn't have
anything to drink. I felt the need to
pee, so I was hopeful that I was well-hydrated.
I desperately wanted to know how far it was to the next aid
station. The next time I saw a runner going
in the other direction, I asked how far it was to the next aid station. He said, “three or four miles.” That answer stunned me. I thought there was an aid station at 47
miles. That’s only 3.5 miles after Elk
Camp, and it seemed like I must have covered at least a mile by now. After what seemed like another mile, I asked
another inbound runner. He said “two and
a half miles.” I kept getting answers
that seemed like a mile farther than I expected. Eventually I realized why. There wasn't really an aid station at 47
miles. They were giving me the distance
to Jaws. The aid station list included a
crew access point at 47 miles, but there wasn't an aid station there. Once I understood that, I felt some
relief. By now we were going downhill,
and I was going faster and faster. For
most of the race, other runners were passing me. In those last four miles to Jaws, nobody
passed me. Now I was passing runners
left and right.
When I got to Jaws, I was a little confused by the layout of
the aid station. I asked where to check
in, and a volunteer pointed to the tent.
I entered the tent and said “218 checking in.” I then immediately asked where I could find
the aid station captain. During the
pre-race briefing we were told that if we needed to drop, we had to tell the
aid station captain. The volunteer asked
why I needed to see the captain, and I told her I needed to drop. She said she could handle that, and she
removed my bib number. I explained that
I fell in a creek, and one of the medical volunteers led me to a chair. After helping me remove my wet gloves, she
brought some hot wash clothes to warm my hands.
Then she brought me a cup of soup broth and wrapped me in two blankets.
I recognized another runner in the tent. He was a faster runner who passed me 20 miles
earlier and looked strong. I was shocked
that he was still there, since he probably arrived an hour before me. I think he headed back out, but lots of other
runners were dropping. I think most of
them were unprepared for the thunderstorm.
After my hands felt better, I asked if there was a
bathroom. I had needed to go over since
Elk Camp, but I didn't want to stop in the cold air. The medical volunteer was relieved that I
needed to go, as that was a sign that my kidneys were still working. I made my way to the bathrooms. Since I didn't have anything to drink in the
last four miles, I was relieved to see that my urine was clear. Unlike at Footbridge where I barely had to go
at all, this time I could have filled two mason jars. I was probably over-hydrated.
When I returned to the tent, I was moved to a different
chair. Another volunteer brought me a
cup of hot cocoa. It occurred to me that
I never stopped my watch when I reached the aid station. It now read 14:34. I had been there a long time, so I estimated
that I arrived at about 14:15. That
meant I covered the last 18 miles in seven hours. If I hadn't fallen in the creek, I would have
had a good chance of finishing. It was
only a few more hours until the sun came up.
The trail conditions on this part of the course were scary, but I
probably could have walked until dawn and then started running with better
visibility.
Jaws Trailhead is the only aid station on the upper part of
the course that's accessible by road, but I still had to wait for a ride back
to Dayton. Jaws Trailhead is crew
accessible, and the only vehicles coming and going were crew vehicles. Whenever a crew member leaves, the volunteers
ask the driver if they can transport a runner who needs a ride. About an hour after I dropped, there was a
crew vehicle with room for four runners.
At the time, I was getting ready to put on my polypro long pants. I had just untied my shoes when they asked
who was ready to leave. Even though my
shoes were untied, I immediately got up from my chair. Within a minute all four spots were spoken
for. The ride back to Dayton took more
than an hour. From there, I had to drive
back to Sheridan. By the time I got
there, it was 4:00 Saturday morning. My
shoes were still untied. When I took off
my shoes and socks, they went straight into the wastebasket. I took a shower to rinse the mud off my
legs. By the time I was ready to get
some sleep, it was 4:30. I could only
sleep for about 30 minutes at a time. I
was still over-hydrated, so I kept waking up to make trips to the
bathroom. While I was at Jaws, I had two
cups of soup broth and two cups of cocoa.
It helped me warm up, but I really didn't need that much liquid.
At 8:00, I gave up on getting any more sleep. Hampton Inn has a free breakfast, and I was
hungry. Without a bath or shower, I
threw come clothes on and walked down to breakfast. After eating, I took a bath and stretched. There was a post-race barbeque in Dayton from
1:00 to 8:00. I needed to go back eventually
to get my drop bag, so I went there for lunch.
As I arrived in Dayton, I saw runners coming into town. Besides the 100 mile race, there were also 50
mile, 50K and 30K races. The shorter
races all started Saturday morning, so everybody was finishing on
Saturday. Because I left and came back,
I had to find a new parking spot. The
parking lot at Scott Park was full, so I had to find street parking a few
blocks away.
As I arrived at the park, I saw more runners finishing. Most of the runners finishing when I got
there were doing the 30K, but I watched carefully for the white race bibs of
100 mile runners. I spotted a few I had
seen during the race. I ate lunch and
then waited for drop bags to be delivered.
The drop bags from Jaws were already there, but the Footbridge aid
station had a later cutoff time.
While I was waiting for the drop bags, I noticed how hot it
was at the finish. When I was driving to
Dayton it was 83 degrees, and it seemed to be getting hotter. Most of the 100 mile runners who didn't drop
at Jaws were still on the course. The
last runners to make the cutoff at Footbridge were just finishing “the wall.” The heat on that climb had to be brutal at
this time of the day. The first shipment
of drop bags from Footbridge arrived at 2:00.
I helped them unload and then retrieved my own bag.
I was too tired to do much else. After returning to Sheridan, I had an early
dinner and went to bed early. I slept
well that night. When I woke up Sunday
morning, I finally started to notice stiffness and soreness in my legs. I also noticed that I had several small black
and blue marks on my right hip. I assume
that happened when I fell into the creek.
My hip probably took the impact of the fall. The creek was lined with small rocks.
I experienced a range of emotions after the race. A DNF is always disappointing. This one was doubly disappointing because I
was going to use this race as my Western States qualifier. I can come back and do this race again next
year, but I don't have room in my 2014 schedule for another qualifying
race. The soonest I can try to get into
Western States will be 2016. Even then,
I'll be starting over with only one ticket in the lottery. I'm beginning to wonder if I'll ever get into
that race again.
Even coming back to the Bighorn Mountains was tough to
contemplate immediately after the race.
Even though I only ran 48 miles, I went through a lot to get that
far. I would have to do that all over
again before I got a chance to run the rest of the course. On the ride back from the Jaws aid station, I
was fighting to stay awake. Had I been
able to continue, I would have been running all night and most of the next day.
The disappointment was offset by relief. I had two goals for this race. The first goal was to finish. The second was to make it home safely. I wasn't able to finish, but I did get home
safely. Those last four miles to get to
Jaws were scary. I didn't know if I
would make it. I probably felt as much
elation to reach the tent at Jaws as other runners felt when they reached Scott
Park in Dayton. I don't usually wear a
race shirt until I finish the race.
After my DNF at Western States, I didn't wear my shirt or use any of my
Western States gear. I gave everything
away because I didn't feel I earned it.
When I went back to Scott Park on Saturday, I was wearing my race
shirt. I also wore it when I drove to
the airport on Sunday. I felt I suffered
through enough adversity to earn it. I
wasn't alone. Of 291 runners who started
this race, only 149 finished.
People often ask me why I would want to do a race like
this. It's about challenging
myself. There can be no success without
the possibility of failure. This year
was disappointing, but you can bet that when I eventually cross that finish
line it's going to be especially satisfying.
On Saturday, I was still too tired to think about coming back. After catching up on sleep, I was already
thinking about things I could do better next year. If I had another drop bag at Jaws, I could
have a spare set of dry clothes, just in case.
If my long pants were in the drop bag at Jaws, I wouldn't need to stuff
as many clothes into my fanny pack. Most
runners keep a dry pair of shoes and socks in their bags at Footbridge, so they
don't have to wear muddy shoes for the last 34 miles. Some runners also keep spare shoes and socks
at Jaws. That seems wasteful, since
they'll get muddy within a mile or two, but it would make it easier to change
clothes. I ran far enough to see the
entire course. Next year, I'll have a
better idea of where I can run and where I need to walk.
Friedrich Nietzsche said, “That which does not kill us makes
us stronger.” Next year, I'll be
stronger.
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